唐宋元明清服饰英语.pptx

1、The Ancient Costume Culture of China,Before Qin Dynasty-WangboQinTang Dynasty-Shi YonghaoTangQing Dynasty-Qiao JianmeiModern times-Shi XiaoLong,Costume Culture of China,中国，被称为“服饰帝国”的地方，在服装文化发展上有着悠久的历史。不同时期的衣服在一定程度上反映了政治、经济、军事、宗教和特定的历史阶段的民间习俗的情况。,China,known as a“land of dresses”,has a long history i

2、n the development of its clothing culture.Dresses in different periods reflect,to a certain extent,the situation of the politics,economy,military affairs,religions,and the civil customs of the specific historical stages.,一、Tang Dynasty,From the Sui to the Tang(618-907),the ancient Chinese clothing d

3、eveloped to its peak,the political stability and economic development,manufacturing and textile technology,the frequent foreign relations,contributing to the development of clothing.,由隋入唐，中国古代服装发展到全盛时期，政治的稳定，经济的发达，生产和纺织技术的进步，对外交往的频繁等促使服饰空前繁荣。,一、Tang Dynasty,The dress style in Tang Dynasty is open.Wo

4、mens dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in Chinas history.The clothing materials were exquisite,the structure was natural,graceful and elegant,and adornments were splendid.,唐朝服饰风格比较开放，服装款式、色彩、图案等都呈现出前所未有的崭新局面，可谓中国服装中最为精彩的篇章，其冠服之丰美华丽，妆饰之奇异纷繁，都令人目不暇接。,一、Tang Dynasty,Tho

5、ugh the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty,they were influenced by cultures and arts of the Western regions.The trades and cultural exchanges with Korea,Vietnam,Japan,Persia and other countries gradually became frequent.In this way,a special open and

6、 romantic style of dress and personal adornments was formed.,唐朝服饰形成了独特的开放浪漫风格。,一、Tang Dynasty,Sexy 性感,Bold 大胆,Colorful 绚丽多彩,Many styles 款式多样,The womens costume is a major attraction of tang Dynastys costume.The most typical form of tang costume is bare chest and arms、gossamer、wide sleeve、long skirt.

7、（袒胸、裸臂、披纱、大袖、长裙）,一、Tang Dynasty,The main costume of women：ruqun、mens dress、hufu 襦裙、男装、胡服,一、Tang Dynasty,上著：短襦或衫 佩披帛，加半臂下著：长裙,The most popular dress is ruqun.即短上衣加长裙，裙腰以绸带高系，几乎及腋下。,搭配：,一、Tang Dynasty,高千赠美人：“粉胸半掩疑暗玉”,衫 丝帛单衣，质地轻软,大袖纱罗 半透明代替襦袄,袖 盛唐后：日趋加宽,周濆“惯束罗衫半露胸,一、Tang Dynasty,It is extremely rare th

8、at women dress the mans garments during the long period of Chinese feudal society.礼记内则曾规定，“男女不通衣服。”,But it was a fashion for women to wear mens dress in tang dynasty.中华古今注记，“至天宝年中，士人之妻，著丈夫靴衫鞭帽，内外一体也”,张萱（女）“虢gu国夫人游春图”,一、Tang Dynasty,新唐书五行志中即记有“天宝初，贵族及士民好为胡服胡帽的史实,一、Tang Dynasty,胡服搭配：浑脱帽或帷帽，窄袖紧身翻领长袍，足登

9、高聈yu靴，蝶躞xi带。,一、Tang Dynasty,Womens make-up:Face powder（扑粉）、Pencil the eyebrow（画眉）huadian（花钿）、Lipstick（描唇）,一、Tang Dynasty,Huadian is also called meihuazhuang or Shouyangzhuang.,It is very popular in Tang and Song Dynasty.,一、song Dynasty,Costume of Song Dynasty(960-1279)was simple and natural,reflecti

10、ng the development tendency of the era.,The style of costume in Song Dynasty tended to conservative,impressing people with the feeling of simple,pure and elegant.Narrow,long,thin are the main characteristics of womens clothing.,唐代文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主，但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策

11、的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方。,一、Song Dynasty,褙子：是宋代女装中最具时代性的服装。宋代男子从皇帝，官吏、士人、商贾、仪卫等都穿。妇女从后、妃、公主到一般妇女都穿。,宋代的褙子为长袖、长衣身，腋下开胯，即衣服前后襟不缝合，而在腋下和背后缀有带子的样式，但是并不系结，而是垂挂着作装饰用，意义是模仿古代中单（内衣）交带的形式，表示好古存旧。,一、

12、song Dynasty,Itwasalreadybeganfoot-bindinginthesongdynastywhichsuancunjinlianhascameintobeing.,三寸金莲,一、yuan Dynasty,The Yuan Dynasty(1279-1368)was the amalgamation age ofethnic groupsin Chinas history,and the dresses and personal adornments of the time also fully represented this feature.,The costume

13、s of Yuan Dynasty has no fixed style,the main style is robe.The robe has little difference between men and women.,However,due to the Characteristic of nation,the garments in Yuan Dynasty are divided into Mongolian style and Han style.,一、yuan Dynasty,蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠”，高约70100厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金

14、锦或毛毡包裱。,一、yuan Dynasty,Zhisunfu:质孙服,上衣下裳，上紧下短，并在腰间加襞(b）积，肩背挂大珠,Zhisunfu was just formulated in 1321 during the reign of Yuan Emperor Yingzong by referring to ancient systems:upper and lower short garments were pieced together;folds were added to the waistline,and big beads were hung on shoulders and

15、 the back.Emperors and officials in all ranks wore such garments,and the Han people called them as theYiseyi.（一色衣）.,一、yuan Dynasty,一、yuan Dynasty,元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝。,一、Ming Dynasty,There were many new changes in costume of the Ming Dynasty(1368-1644).The outstanding feature was th

16、at the buttons on the forepart replaced the band knots in use for several thousand years.The costume in Ming Dynasty basically followed the style of Tang and Song Dynasties,but there were some differences in sizes of shirt and skirt.,一、Ming Dynasty,Official dress has a outstanding feature in Mings c

17、ostume culture,由于朱元璋文化低，无能力另创新的服制，于是下诏：衣冠悉如唐代形制。于是明代官服上采周汉，下取唐宋，出现了历代官服之集大成现象，成为封建社会末期官服的典范。,一、Ming Dynasty,穿朝服的明代官员,明自认为以火德王天下，色仿周汉而尚赤，是以有赤袍为朝服之制。明开国皇帝朱元璋因朱即赤色，即以赤色为国家政权的标志，,袍服俱为赤罗衣，白纱中单，青饰领缘，赤罗裳青缘，赤罗蔽膝，赤白二色大带，革带，佩绶，梁冠，白袜黑履。,朝服搭配：,一、Ming Dynasty,洪武六年（公元1373年）规定了新的服饰标准。这次修订的最大创新就是在袍服上增加区别品级的补子，即一种方形

18、绣有鸟纹兽纹图案的丝织物，补缀在服装胸前和后背。以前官服上绣不同纹样图案，制作工期长，成本高，稍有不慎则会使全衣报废。补子的出现，使标识图案和成衣分离，可以分开独立制作，既提高了效率，又降低了费用，同时便于更换，所以这种官服制度一直沿用到清代。,明代着补服的官员,清代着补服的官员,补子,一、Ming Dynasty,一、Ming Dynasty,一品文官补子为仙鹤和水浪构成，浪寓潮意，潮谐朝字音，取意为“一品当朝”,七品文官鸂鶒补子,四品文官云雁补子,三品武官豹补子,五品武官熊罴pi补子,一品武官狮补子,一、Ming Dynasty,即去袖的长褙子，比甲与隋唐的半臂相似，宋元之后渐流行，至明代

19、则成为妇女居家之常服，清代的马甲，也是由此发展而来。,比甲,比甲,Womens costume,一、ming Dynasty,paddy-field costumes（水田衣）,Paddy-field costumes were dresses for ordinary women in the Ming Dynasty.They were sewn with bits and pieces of brocades in various colors and looked like the cassocks of shamans.Colors of the materials of the w

20、hole dress were mutually interlaced and the form was just like the paddy field,hence the name paddy-field costumes.,一、QING Dynasty,The organization of political power mainly consisted of the rulers of the Manchuethnic minorityin the Qing Dynasty(1644-1911),so the customs of Manchu bannermen(满旗服饰)aff

21、ected those of the Central Plains.The traditional dress code that had been handed down for several thousand years was damaged because of the invasion of the Eight Banners soldiers.,However,this innovation also was another improvement of Chinas traditional dress code.It was the third obvious revoluti

22、on after the Mongol Costumes for Arrow Shooting on Horseback and the Open Dresses of the Tang Dynasty in the history.,一、QING Dynasty,比甲,“留头不留发，留发不留头”,“十从十不从”政策：,男从女不从，生从死不从，阳从阴不从，官从隶不从，老从少不从,儒从僧道不从，娼从而优伶不从，仕宦从婚姻不从，国号从官号不从，役税从文字语言不从。”,Tonsure、Change clothes.(剃发易服)Based on Manchu customs,Dressed braid

23、ing,braid hanging behind,wearing thin horse-hoof-shaped cuffArrow clothing,tight socks,dark boots.剃发留辫，辫垂脑后，穿瘦削的马蹄袖箭衣、紧袜、深统靴。,一、QING Dynasty,琵琶襟,马褂：形制为对襟、大襟和缺襟（琵琶襟）之别。对襟马褂多当礼服。大襟马褂多当作常服，一般穿袍服外面。缺襟（琵琶襟）马褂多作为行装。,大襟,对襟,一、QING Dynasty,马甲：无袖短衣，也称“背心”或“坎肩”,巴图鲁坎肩：（巴图鲁是满语，是“勇士”之意）。这种马甲，四周镶边，在正胸钉一横排钮扣，共十三粒，俗

24、称“一字襟”马甲，或称“十三太保”。,一、QING Dynasty,比甲,或称“高底鞋”、“马蹄底”鞋。其木底高跟一般高510厘米左右，有的可达1416厘米，最高的可达25厘米左右。它是满族特有的一种绣花鞋。,flowerpot shoes：花盆鞋,一、QING Dynasty,The cheongsam is an eminently feature of TheQizhuangcostume，which still has certain impacts on modern costume.Especially,along with the development of China,a c

25、heongsam that demonstrates womens curvaceous beauty has become the representative garment of the Han people,as it can show the femininity and temperament of oriental ladies.,一、QING Dynasty,比甲,China is a historical country with splendid civilizations(文明),in which the Chinese costume(中国服装)is an import

26、ant part.From the change of Chinese costumes,we can see the political change,economic development and customs evolvement through the long history.I believe that we all have knew something by the pictures we just saw.And I hope you will like this introduction and the Chinese costume.,Costume Culture of China,Thanks for your attention！,