Tokyo 东京.docx

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Tokyo 东京.docx

Tokyo东京

Tokyo东京

 ThesheerlevelofenergyisthemoststrikingaspectofJapan'scapitalcity.Tokyoremainsaglitteringexampleofthe'miracle'ofpostWorldWarIIJapan.Streetsarelinedwithtinyspecialistshopsandbustlingrestaurants,mostofwhichstayopenlateintothenight.ClosetothesoaringofficeblocksexistpocketsofanotherTokyo-anoldwoodenhouse,aJapaneseinn,anoldladyinakimonosweepingthepavementoutsideherhomewithastrawbroom.Morethananythingelse,Tokyoisaplacewheretheurgentrhythmsofconsumerculturecollidewiththequietermomentsthatlingerfromoldertraditions.

  SpringisthebesttimetovisitTokyo,particularlyascherryblossomsbegintoappearinearlyAprilandthisiswhenthecityisatitsmostbeautiful.Autumnisnotabadtimetovisiteither,withitscooltemperaturesandmanycleardays,whilewinterismarkedbytheoccasionalsnowfallbutrarelyfreezingconditions.Thecitycanbeanunpleasantplaceduringsummer,whentorrentialdownpoursandmugginesscombinewiththecrowdedpublictransporttoweardownyourcalmvisitor'sfa?

ade.

  ImperialPalace

  TheJapaneseemperorandtheimperialfamilystillcalltheImperialPalacehome,sounlessyougetaroyalinvitetoteatouristsarerestrictedtotheoutskirtsandthegardens.NewYear'sDay(2January)and23December(theEmperor'sbirthday)aretheonlyexceptionstothisrule.

  ThebiggestdrawcardoftheImperialPalace,bothliterallyandmetaphorically,isEdo-jocastle.Fromthe17thcenturyuntiltheMeijiRestoration,itwasusedastheimpregnablefortressoftherulingshogunate.Overtheyearsthecastlewasupgraded,addedto,renovatedandbuiltontowithalltheforceofarabidrenovator.ForawhileitwasthelargestcastleintheworldbutalltheDIY'ingcametoanabruptendwhenlargeportionsofitweredestroyedinthetransferofpowerfromshogunbacktoemperorduringtheMeijiRestoration.

  TheImperialEastGardenisenteredthroughoneofthreegatesalthoughthemostpopularistheOte-mon,whichwasoncetheprinciplegateofEdo-jo.ThegardenisanoasisofquietafterthebustleofTokyo,andcharacteristicallyJapanese;ahorizonofclearlines,anattentiontodetailandthereligiousplacementofobjectswithinthelandscape.

  TokyoDisneyland

  Youcouldbeforgivenforassumingthatthecountrythatinventedfakewaveswouldjumpatthechancetoout-DisneyDisneyland,soitcomesassomethingofashocktoseesuchuncharacteristicrestraint.SurprisinglyMickeyMouse,DonaldDuckandmostofWalt'sotherempire-buildingprototypeshavebeenrespectfullyleftaloneandmuchofTokyoDisneylandisanexactreplicaoftheCalifornianamusementpark.

  Shinjuku

  TheShinjukudistrictis,withoutdoubt,themostvigorouspartofTokyo;twomillionpeopleperdaypassthroughShinjukustationalone.Withatotallackofironyortongue-in-cheekness,thetwosides-eastandwest-sitside-by-sideinmutualharmony;westShinjukuisthestaid,buttoned-downcommercialhubofthecity,whiletheeastisitscolourful,seedyandexoticcounterpart.Thewestisplanned,administrativeandskyscrapped,whiletheeastsideisrambling,chaoticandfulloffast-foodshopsandpawnshops.

  Wanderingtheeastsideyou'llbeabletoseetheentireworldgobywhilesimultaneouslyhavingyoursensesassaultedbyarchetypalBladeRunnervideobillboardsontheStudioAltabuilding,apopularmeetingplaceforTokyoites.Othereast-sideattractionsincludeHanazona-jinjashrine,themanydepartmemtstoresandthecolourfulifrisqueKabukichoandGoldenGaiareas.

  SonyBuilding

  TheSonybuilding,attheSukiyabashiintersection,isamust-seeforallthecyberjunkies,digital-devotees,andPlaystationgroupies.AnyelectronicgizmothathaseverbeeninventedishereintheSonybuilding,aswellassomeyet-to-be-retailedprototypes.Withmostofthedisplaysbeingahands-onproposition,it'sanoversizedkid'sarcade.

  Thebuildingitselfisaratherphlegmaticversionofthesixties-alotoffunctionoverform-butwitheightstoriesofunadulteratedelectronicheavenwhocaresaboutthepackaging.

  Ginza

  Despiteitsdisaster-riddenhistoryandpropensityforshape-changing,Ginzahasbecomesynonymouswithconspicuousconsumptionandexcessiveshopping.Attheendofthe19thcentury,afterfirerazedittotheground,itwasressurectedinaLondon-cum-faux-ParisianstylewithbrickbuildingsandwideboulevardsthatmimickedtheChampsElysses.Sincethen,earthquakesandWWIIcarpet-bombinghasseenitgraduallytransformfromcontinentalchictotrans-atlanticfunctional,butitstillpullsthecrowds.

  TherearesomejejeuneshoppingdistrictsthathavetriedtowrestlethecrownfromGinza-they'remorecrowded,moreopulentandhipper-butthegrandeolddameofostentatiousspendingstillsretainsherimperioussnobvalue.Seriousshoppersdon'tleavetownwithoutswingingthroughthedoorsofMatsuya,MitsukoshandWakodepartmentstores.TheGinzastripiswhereyoucanpurchasenoveltyitemswhosefetishisticvaluefaroutweighitsfunctionalvalue,andindulgeinaspotofretailtherapy.Windowshoppingisfree,though,andthewindowdisplaysinthedepartmentstoresareworksofinstallationartinthemselves.

  Ueno-koenpark

  IfGinzaisforshopping,Ueno-koenParkisforstrolling,museum-hoppingandtemple-gazing.TheareaofUenowashistoricallytheAlamoofthelastshogunate-siteofhisfutilelast-ditchefforttopreventatakeoverbytheimperialarmy.Todayit'sacarefullylandscapedparkdottedwithmuseums,templesandanot-half-badzoo.

  AttractionsinsidetheparkincludetheTokyoMetropolitanMuseumofArt(ifcontemporaryartisyourbagthisisagoodplacetostart),theTokyoNationalMuseum,theNationalScienceMuseum,theNationalMuseumofWesternArt(notonlydoesthebuildinghousesomeimpressiveexamplesofwesternart,thebuildingitselfwasbuiltbyLeCorbusierandthegardencontainsoriginalRodinsincludinghisiconicsculpture,TheThinker),theTokyoMetropolitanFestivalHallandtheUeno-no-MoriArtMuseum,whichoftenhascalligraphyexhibitionsscheduled.

  OneofthemostfrequentlyandferventlypatronisedtemplesinUeno-koenparkistheKiyomizuKannon-doTemple.Womenwishingtoconceiveleaveadollhereforthe1000-armedgoddesssenjuKannon;afterthedollsareburntinanannualbonfireon25September,thewomenwaittoseeifKannonhasgrantedthemthegiftoffertility.

  HamaRikyuDetachedPalaceGarden

  TheHamaRikyuDetachedPalaceGarden,southofTokyocentral,is25hectares(62acres)ofTokyo'sgreenest,andmostfinelylandscaped,piecesofrealestate.Inthe17thcenturyitwasthehappyhuntinggroundfortheTokugawashogunatebutpassedintothehandsofthegoodcitizensofTokyo,postWorldWarII.Theparkisactuallyonanisland,cutofffromthesurroundingmetropolisbyanancientwalledmoatandaccessiblebyonlyoneentranceovertheNanmonBridge.

  TheParkisapopularvenueforastrollbecauseitfeelsdeceptivelylargeandhasanunusualemphasisonwater.ThehugeShioriPondisafocalpointforvisitorsbutitstidalpools,teahouses,bridges,pinetrees,andpavilionsformoon-watchingallcontributetothegarden'scharmandphotogenicappeal.

  AnentryfeeensuresthattheHamaRikyuisoneofthequieterandless-congestedareasofTokyo,althoughtheUS'3entryfeeiswaivedfordisabledtravellersandonecompanion.

  TokyoNationalMuseum

  TheTokyoNationalMuseumisoneplaceworthgoingoutofyourwaytovisit.ItholdsJapan'slargestcollectionofJapaneseart,aswellasanumberoffinesculpturesandanotinconsiderablenumberofantiquities.Onlyafractionofthecollectionisdisplayedatanyonetime.

  Thefourmaingalleries-theMainGallery,theGalleryofEasternAntiquities,HyokeikanHallandtheGalleryofHoryu-jiTreasures-holdJapaneseart(includingsculpture,swords,lacquerwareandcalligraphy),archaelogicalfindsfromthroughoutAsia,Japanesearchaelogicalitems,andmasksandscrollsrespectively.

  TheGalleryofHoryujiTreasuresisonlyopenonThursdaysandeventhen,ifitisrainingorhumid,canbesummarilyclosed.Someofthegalleriesexhibitsareover1000yearsoldandgreatcareistakentoprotectthemfromtheeffectsofhumidityanddampness.

  KiteMuseum

  TheKiteMuseum,justbehindTokyudepartmentstoreinShibuya-ku,islivingreprooftoallthoserinky-dinkkiteswithplainplasticsails,plywoodframesandaSundaydriverattheendofthestring.Mostofthe4000kiteshousedinthemuseumaretraditionalJapanesekites(EdoNishiki-EDako)buttherearesomefineexamplesfromChinaandotherAsiancountries.

  Theframesaremainlybamboowhilethesailsaremadeof'washi',atypeofhandmadepapermadefromthekohzotree(aspeciesofmulberry)。

Thepaperisbothlightweightandstrong.Illustrationsarefirstoutlinedindarksumiinktorestrictthepigmentstothedesiredareasandthentheartistgoestotownonthedesignitself.KitescenesincludescowlingKabukiactors,samuraiwarriorshackingeachothertodeathagainstabusybackdropofpsychedelicswirlsandcutefluffy'HelloKitty'typeanimalsdoingunnaturalthings.

  Themuseumissituatedonthe5thfloorofTaimeiken,awell-knownrestaurant,locatedindowntownTokyo.It'scrampedandpokeyandlacksexplanatorymaterial,butitsstillauniquemuseumwithauniquecollection.

  Tokyoisservicedbytwomajorairports,NaritaandHaneda.Thereare12subwaylinesoperatedbytwocompanies.Thesubwayservicesareessentiallythesameandhavegoodconnectionsfromonetotheother,althoughtheydooperateunderseparatetick

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