制衣用语词典.docx

制衣用语词典.docx

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制衣用语词典

针织布knittedfabric单面针织布knittedsinglefabric织圈knittedstitch针织knitting单面针织布knittedsinglefabric成圈周期knittingcycle织圈knittingloop柔软度pliability起皱puckering长毛绒织物plushfabric重叠（缝线）ply物料、布层移动plyshifting合股线plythread夹板phywood袋襟pocketbearer/pocketcatch/pocketextension袋贴pocketfacing袋口pocketmouth袋模pockettemplate聚酰胺polyamide聚酯（涤纶）polyester聚酯纤维polyesterfibre聚酯、棉混纺polyester/cotton（t/c）blend聚乙烯polyethylene（PE）聚合物polymer聚合反应polymerization高湿模量纤维（聚酯纤维）polynosicfibre聚丙烯polypropylene氨纶纤维polyurethanefibre聚氯乙烯polyvinylchloride（PVC）聚乙烯衍生物polyvinylderivative刺毛辊porcupineroller通透性porosity线梭固位指（床桥）positionfinger定位孔（凹位）positonslot/notch钮柱、梭柱post直柱车面postbed钱袋pouch前置压力调节器pre-tensioner拍钮pressstud压杆presser靴柱presserbar靴柱弹簧presserbarspring压靴（压脚）presserfoot起靴器presserfootlifter公主线princessline公主线全身裙princesslinedress印花print脱圈knockover打结knot文字说明（纸样）、唛头label花边lace脱散laddering羔羊毛lamb’swool层叠的laminated棉卷lap襟lapel驳骨lappedseam卷棉lapping大圆领线largescoopedneckline梭掩（衣车）、针舍（针织）latch舌针latchneedle针舌闭口位置latch-closingposition分经棒leaserod皮用针尖leatherpoint裤管形状legshape夏威夷领、便装领leisurecollar便装恤衫leisureshirt长度方码lengthgrade袖长（至手腕）lengthtowrist提综图liftingplan织细球形针尖lightballpoint耐光牢度lightfastbess钮的尺码ligne麻胶lignin线密度lineardensity亚麻linen女装内衣lingerie里布liningfabric美洲鸵llama定位槽locationggroove紧扣锁链针步lockedchainstitch平车针步lockstitch平车lockstitchmachine长坑longgroove长脚趾（压靴）longshoe长身短纤维longstaple环形钮门loopbuttonhole成圈轮式针织机loopwheelmachine取线圈元件lop-takingside取线圈面loop-takingside线钩looper钩身looperblade钩线looperthread线钩的线圈looperthreadloop前臂lowerarm下刀lowerknife下线钩lowerlooper下钩线lowerlooperthread下止点lowestpointofitsstroke滑润lubrication车面machinebed衣车制造出来的针步machinestitch车台machinetable锦葵族mallow马尼拉咭纸Manilacard针步阔度的指引（针步）marginguide唛架marker生产头样masterpattern水笔markerpen点位marking软尺measuringtape中等细度的亚麻mediumflax中厚型纸厚型mediumtoheavyweight熔体纺丝meltspinning男装西裤men’strousers丝光棉mercerizedcotton美利奴羊merino金属脚钮buttonshankbutton金属定型条metalstay金属纤维metallicfibre公制刻度metriccalibration公吨（MT/t）metricton梅尔聚酯Meyerpolyester微米数值制micronvaluesystem小腿围mid-calf腹部midriff矿物纤维mineralfibre仿保险针步mocksafety-stitch改性青纶modacrylic安格拉山羊毛（马海毛）mohair回潮率moistureregain单织丝monofilament多方向的multi-directional多线锁链针步multi-threadchainstitch复织丝multifilament蘑菇钩和容貌圈mushroomsandvelours颈背骨nape/napebone及骨（包边、锁边）overedge及骨锁链针步overedgechainstitch幅（片）panel提花装置patterningselectiondevice撕剥力peelingstrength滚边piping暗筒盖位placketcover普通开口plainopening摺褶量pleatingallowance间棉quilting包肩袖夹圈（牛角袖夹圈）paglanarmhole直荷叶边straightruffle露边荷叶边straightrufflewithaheading专用名词少女Juniors’套头式Pullover（Slip-on）开襟式Cardigan背心Vest（Shell）无扣开襟式ChannelCardigan拉链开襟式ZipperCardigan洋装Dress围巾Scarf

25

制衣术语

7Gauge7针SingleKnit单面编Semi-DoubleKnit片袋编DoubleKnit双面编IntarsiaFishermanKnit渔人装编ReversedStitch反针Diamond菱形花样Pointelle镂空花Dropstitch空针Tubular包边Stripe配条MixColor（Tweed）混纱PopCornStitch珠目Zig-ZagStitch锯齿状织法Hand-Knit手编SpreadCollar翻领NotchCollar国民领ShawlCollar菜瓜领TurtleNeck高领MockTurtleNeck半高领VWithCollarV翻领SkivvyNeck宽圆领Set-inSleeve石丁Cape披肩Lantern灯笼Puffed蓬松Bishop帽型Angel喇叭Bell铃型RaglanSleeve拉格兰SaddleShoulder马鞍肩Buttonrib身罗纹Armhole挂肩Fivethreadoverlockm/csoftystitch五线拷克车Flatlockm/c平针车Bartacker打结车Buttonholing扣眼车钉扣车buttoningm/c环缝车chainstitchm/c盲缝车blindstitch吊缝车bastingm/c缝衣机结构：

Generalconstructionoflockstitchsewingm/c车身arm主轴armshaft搬轮balancewheel（handwheel）车台bed底轴bedshaft缠绕器bobbinwinder

26

制衣术语

门台faceplate抬压脚kneelift线架threadstand梭心bobbin梭匣bobbincase梭匣柄bobbincaselatch梭匣簧bobbincasetensionspring狗牙齿（送布齿）feeddog针把needlebar针夹needleclamp手抬压脚presserbarlifer压脚presserfoot针目调整器stitchregulator喉片（针板）throatplate（needleplate）护线器threadguard导线器threadguides（eyelets）跳线钩threadtake-up夹线器tensiondevices（tensiondisco）（uppertension）来回式梭子oscillatingshuttle旋转式梭子rotaryhook缝衣辅助工具：

sewingmachineattachments比尺guide卷边喇叭hemmer滚边喇叭binder镶边喇叭piper整烫molding&pressing电熨斗electricaliron蒸汽熨斗steam-electricaliron烫领袖口机collar-cuff-flapformer压翻领袖口机diepressingm/c翻领器collarturner压板烫（肋线、后中心线）side&backpress压板烫（肋线）立体烫formpressingm/c压摺机tuckm/c（pleatingm/c）蒸汽定型箱steamchamber蒸汽管steampipe喷枪cleaninggun包装packing打叠机productfoldingm/c容器成形器containershaper装箱器containerloader封箱机containersealer输送带containerconveyor裁片衬衫部位Detailsinshirts福司（担干）yoke立领（领座）neckband（collarstand）袖口布（考夫）cuff袖叉cuffvent（cuffopening）前门襟frontstrap暗门襟plainfront（wrapoverfront）肩章（肩牌）epaulet贴袋patchpocketCollartype领嘴钮bottomdowncollar小方领shirtcollar小圆领roundedcollar国民领（翻开领）revercollarCufftype假反袖口cuffstrap（cuffband）双层袖口doublelinked-cuffButtomtype平脚straightbottom鱼尾tailbottomDetailsintrousers:

前片frontleg腰带环beltloop天狗placketextension（basquc）门襟placket前立门fly（zipper,buttonfly）口袋布pocketpiece口袋贴布pocketfacing盖袋（贴袋）flappocket（patchpocket）袋盖flapBottomtype平口裤管plainbottom褶边裤管turned-upbottom直筒裤管straightleg波浪状裤管flareleg喇叭裤管bellbottom窄裤管（锥形）taperbottom宽松直形裤管oxfordbottom（flare&turned-up）Truecrossortruebias正斜（与经纬纱呈45。

伸缩性最大）Net不加缝份之纸型或身材尺寸Off-grain纸型不顺布匹经纬向之排列Stenterpinholes布边两边经拉幅整理，所遗留下的小洞Bag-out布匹面对面缝合，再将正面翻出。

袋缝Lay-up裁布，经济排版Layout裁片位置排列图Seton,ontheround袖子与衣身肋边分别缝合后，再上袖之情形Seton,ontheflat先上袖，。

。

。

Blindstitch盲缝（撬边）Wrap-over叠合份Flatfellseam保险缝

27

制衣术语

Flounce荷叶边包卷式开口flyfastening虫止；旗袍钩子froggingGauge（smocking）打褶（规则型）Honeycombstitch蜂窝式装饰缝具伸缩性interlining夹在面料与里料之间，保暖interfacing同上，唯使用于襟缘及领袖口等部分mercerized零售价与批发价之差额mitre丝光处理过的mull布料斜角的相接缝nacre未经漂白之棉布picot女性腰下所做的荷叶边长及臀围线piecing布不够时所做的拼布布纹需与前者一致ruche打摺R.T.W=readytowear成衣Shank钉扣后，于扣子底部缠绕成柄状Shirring打皱褶，碎褶Pucker起皱布边selvedgeTopstitch压明线Staystitching稳定缝，如在领围上缝一周以稳定领型Twillweave斜纹织Dove-tail如斜裙裁片可倒顺拼排以省料Matt钝而粗糙之布面Banlancemark合印。

裁片剪缺口，记号Binding滚边Boundle一捆裁片Chain-offClothclip裁片夹分散重点：

人字形锁链针步zigzagchainstitch人造丝rayon十字条（服装）crosstuck三针网底针步threeneedlebottomcovering三针网面针步threeneedlecoveringstitchstitch上染性能dyeability上盆骨upper-hipbone上级领fall,collarfall叉slit大床hookbody大剪刀shear打圆领线largescoopedneckline大压熨top-pressing小床bobbincasebase工字褶boxpleat不工作位置restingposition内反贴量（裤头）facing-inamount内长insideleg,in-leg内骨in-seam内脾缝骨in-legseam内层袋布underfold内翻缝骨enclosedseam分级sorting分裂褶cleavagedart风隔条spacedtuck匹染色piece-dyed匹头piecegoods反工字褶invertedpleat反平针组织reverseplainstitch反捻un-twisting反捻尖narrowreversetwistpoint反领线（衫领）foldline反襟revere反襟线breakline天然聚合物naturalpolymer引出罗拉drawingoffroller手扯长度staplelength手控熨斗handiron木浆woodpulp比例尺scaleruler比重specificgravity比应力specificstress毛面物料pilematerial毛里sherpa加固索带reinforcedcord加油精梳oilcombing包肩袖夹圈（牛角袖夹圈）raglanarmhole包芯缝线core-spunthread包缝机cupseamer包边钮门boundbuttonhole包边缝骨（包边接缝）boundseam半贴身的semi-fitted四方形缩皱waffleshirring四方底夹圈square-bottomarmhole四方领线squareneckline四针网面针步four-needlecoverstitch四针锁链针步four-needleinterlockstitch外长（西裤）out-leg外型sihouette外层袋布top-fold外鞘sheath外缝骨outseam布匹（按码出售的织物）yardagegoods布底覆摺好的缝份turning布面rightside平车针步lockstitch平面的two-dimensional平面缝骨（平面接缝）plainseam平面双线锁链

28

制衣术语

针步车flat-beddoublethreadchainstitchmachine平针步plainknittedfabric平针床类型straightbartype平针步plainstitch平靴hingedfoot幼条（牙签条）pintuck打包bailing打条tuck打缆smocking旦（细度单位）denier正方边缘针步squareedgestitch生产头样masterpattern用途enduse白洋布calico立体的three-dimensional企领standcollar全干bone-dry共聚反应co-polymerization再生纤维regenerated（man-made）fiber再生纤维regeneratedcellulosefiber吊带suspender吊带上衣haltertops,tube吊带内衣camisole合成拉链牙syntheticteeth合成变形（膨体）缝线texturedsyntheticthread合股三线three-plythread回弹力creaserecovery多股线cordthread,cablethread多茸毛fuzzy多线锁链针步multi-threadchainstitch帆蓬sailcloth成衣ready-to-wear成圈周期knittingcycle羊毛斜纹布料woolgarbardine羽绒featherdown耳扣rouleau耳圈底的对边abuttededge自己交圈intralooping自动整理self-neatening自动头autolock衣车制造出来的针步machinestitch低腰裤hipsters克特毛纱支数wollencount吸入suction困定片hookgib夹圈arm-scye床轴bedshaft形状保持性shaperetention抗切强度shearingstrength扼位notch折缝weltseam每幅接缝骨panelseam每幅接缝线panelline车缝针步行stitching车缝边间线edge-stitching车朴sewn-in/sewn-oninterlining防水斜纹布garbardine防污性soilresistance防风化性resistancetoweathering防霉性resistancetomicro-organisms并排衔接flatjoin并排衔接的缝骨bolt-endseaming乳头nipple亚麻flax,linen并条doubling兔毛angora刻度calibration底面布wrongside袖底侧贴understrip拉长线圈heldloop拉纱装置yarntake-up拉绒的brushed拉链布tape拉链吊牌tabpull拉链尾buttomstop拉链头topstop拉链锁圈coil明袋patchpocket法兰绒布flannel泡泡布（皱布）seerucker泡泡袖puffsleeve直长恤衫tunicshirt肩带strap肩膊骨shoulderbone肩膊线shoulderline肩颈点shoulderneckpoint花式纱noveltyyarn芯吸作用wicking初办纸样samplepattern长毛绒织物plushfabric长坑longgroove长身短纤维longstaple长丝纱filamentyarn攻丝线continuousfilamentthread攻丝纤维filamentaryfiber,filament非工作织针inactiveneedle非粘朴（车朴）non-fusibleinterlining便裤slacks前幅（纸样：

1.上身，2衫、裙3.西裤）1.frontbodice2.front3.topside前牌flyfront前钮边距离（恤衫）frontedgeallowance前臂肌（三头肌）triceps前襟贴frontfacing前襟开口frontopening前襟边线frontedgeline垂直风量（放码）verticalcomponent垂皱领cowlneckline型垫buck封尾拉链conventionalzipper,regulationzipper度身定制的西装tailoredsuit后浪（裤）backcrotch后浪高backrise后浪缝骨backseam后幅（1.衫、裙2。

西裤）1.back2.underside后腰直（由颈背骨至腰）napetowaist后梁（织布机）backrest挑脚hemming挑线簧chechspring,threadtake-upspring，柔软度flexibility,softness,pliabil