服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献.docx

1、服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献文献信息：文 文献 献标 标题 题：Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption（可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计）国外作者：Kirsi Niinimäki文献出处：Nordic Te_tile Journal，20_，1:60-69.字数统计：英文 3104 单词，17881 字符；中文 5737 汉字外文文献：Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable ConsumptionAbstractThis article pres

2、ents a study that investigates product satisfaction inthe conte_t of clothing.The paper furthermore presents suggestions on how this knowledge can be used to create proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption.One of the main challenges in todays consumer society is how to design products th

3、at encourage consumers to engage in more environmentally responsible behaviour, sustainable consumption.This paper opens the discussion on how to change current unsustainable consumption behaviour related to clothing through a visionary, far- sighted design approach.Designers can create future-orien

4、ted sustainable designs that can transform consumption patterns towards more sustainable ones.Design for sustainability can thus be a redirective practice that aims for sustainable consumption, and the ways in which fashion design can be a proactive process with this aim will be described.Keywords:

5、proactive design, sustainable design, sustainable consumption, emotional satisfaction, PSS.IntroductionProducts configure consumer needs and use patterns; hence, design can be said to be “practice-oriented”, creating certain everyday practices and consumptionbehaviour (Shove et al.20_, 134–136

6、).Current industrial design and mass- manufacturing systems stimulate consumerism and the production of disposable products (Walker 20_, 51).Fast changing trends lead to consumers unsustainable consumption behaviour.To create a new, sustainable balance between design, manufacturing and consumption,

7、alternative ways to create products are required to drive more sustainable consumption behaviour.Therefore, designers should evaluate how each design decision affects a consumers consumption patterns.Understood in this way, sustainable design can be a redirective or a proactive practice that aims fo

8、r sustainable practices in consumption (Fry 2021, 53).Higher production volumes and simultaneous growing consumption have caused an increase in material consumption (Throne-Holst et al.20_).Ever-changing fashion trends, affordable product prices and low-quality products cause consumers to engage in

9、unsustainable consumption behaviour, such as impulse purchases, overconsumption, short use time and premature disposal of products.The increase in the purchase of short-lifespan products results in a notable increase in waste.Currently, appro_imately 70 percent of disposed clothing and te_tiles end

10、up in landfills, and in many Western countries clothing and te_tile waste is estimated to be the fastest growing waste stream (Fletcher 2021, 98).Consumers discard gaments not only because they are worn out but also because they actively seek novelty.Nevertheless, product durability and longterm use

11、 are prerequisites for sustainable consumption: i.e.e_tending the life span of products is essential when the goal is sustainable consumption (Cooper 20_).Importantly, however, consumers associate durability with high quality and not with environmental impact.Emotions lie at the centre of human life

12、, and they influence most of our behaviours, motivations and thought processes (Desmet 2021, 379).Emotions also play a strong role in consumption.The interplay between wants, needs, values, attitudes and e_periences is emotionally meaningful for a contemporary consumer.Clothing and fashion items bel

13、ong to the category of self-e_pressive products, and with such products, consumption-related emotions are important to the consumer.As Richins (2021) argued, these consumption emotions are important elements in contemporary society and especially after the purchase event.The purchase situation bees

14、a strong positive e_perience for a consumer, but it is very short term in nature and has no connection to the e_perience of deeper satisfaction or person– product attachment (ibid).Through a new purchase event, the consumer can again e_perience e_citement, enjoyment, joy and pleasure, at least

15、 momentarily.From an environmental point of view, studying consumption patterns and themeanings of consumption is important when sustained positive emotions in person– product relationships are desired or solutions are sought to replace materialistic consumption with other positive emotional s

16、tates.The design process should focus on sustainable consumer satisfaction with a product or with the person–product attachment process.Moreover, a new kind of product service system (PSS) should be developed that aims to prolong the enjoyable use time of the product.A PSS strategy can also of

17、fer the consumer new emotional e_periences, which can postpone the disposal of the product; PSS thinking can thereby aim to avoid a new garment purchase, which is an opportunity to decrease materialistic consumption.Sustainable Satisfaction with ClothingIf current unsustainable consumption patterns

18、are to be transformed into more sustainable ones, the ways in which design can offer sustainable satisfaction must be investigated.To gain a deeper understanding of the opportunities to deliver satisfaction by design and how the enjoyable use of garments can be e_tended, the satisfaction process mus

19、t first be e_plained.According to Swan and bs (1976), the performance of clothing can be separatedintoinstrumentalperformance(physicalproperties)ande_pressive performance.E_pressive performance is linked to a consumers psychological response to the garment, such as the e_perience of beauty.Instrumen

20、tal requirements (e.g.quality e_pectations) must be satisfied first.Nevertheless, only fulfilling instrumental requirements will not result in satisfaction.Therefore clothing mustalso meet consumers emotional needs if it is to deliver satisfaction (Swan and bs 1976).Hence good intrinsic quality is o

21、ptimal for ensuring consumer satisfaction and to guarantee the longevity of clothing.High quality means durable materials and high manufacturing quality.The ageing process of a pleasant, aesthetic garment requires not only maintaining high intrinsic quality but also the design of a more classical st

22、yle and use of durable materials.Some te_tile materials look old after a short use time.The material might e_perience pilling or may look old after a few washes.Garments needing frequent washing may look old rather quickly; therefore, recognising materials that age in a more aesthetically pleasing m

23、anner is important.Studies have shown (Niinimäki 2021) that consumers e_perience e.g.wool and real leather to age in an aesthetically pleasant way.Consumers report that with high quality wool the ageing process does not show as obviously and in leather the ageing process is e_perienced as an at

24、tractive temporal dimension (ibid.).Consumers respect aesthetic attributes in the long-term use of clothing, and aesthetic attributes correspond to e_pressive performance in clothing satisfaction.Accordingly, e_pressive performance affects the psychological response to clothing.The aesthetic attribu

25、tes that correlate to the longevity of clothing are good fit, personal cut, nice colours and fortable materials,as well as a classic look (see Table 1).Garment tactility is important to the wearer and a pleasant tactile e_perience during the use situation is one attribute for enjoyable long-term use

26、 of clothing.Table I: Attributes that enable longevity in clothing The attributes that enable longevity in clothing are the following:Quality: Durable materials Durability in use Durability in laundering High manufacturing qualityFunctionality: Easy maintenance Suitability in the use situation (phys

27、iological and psychological suitability)Satisfying use e_perienceBeauty, style, colour, fit Aesthetic E_pressive beauty above average attributes: Tactile e_periencefortable materials Values: Products values have to meet consumers personal values Not only quality, functionality and aesthetics are imp

28、ortant attributes; the values behind the product are also important to consumer satisfaction.Clothing choices must connect strongly with the wearers self-image, identity and values.Wang and Wallendorf (20_) have argued that consumers with high materialistic values seek novelty and evaluate their pos

29、sessions more often than consumers with lower materialistic values.They also highlight that materialistic consumers have less appreciation for deeper person–product relationships that develop during longer use situations.Consumers materialistic values may also connect with social status-relate

30、d elements in garments and possessions.Consumers with lower materialistic values may have greater appreciation for the personal meanings attributable to the product that emerge during long-term use (Wang &; Wallendorf 20_).Consumers with high environmental and ethical interests place high importance

31、 on being able to find environmental value behind a product.These consumers respect credence quality attributes – local and ethical production, eco-materials and long garment life spans – and they want to see these attributes and environmental values in the products they purchase.The val

32、ue aspect is most important and consumers value e_pectations should be fulfilled to create deep product satisfaction (Niinimäki 2021).Fashion Design for Sustainable SatisfactionHow can a designer offer sustainable satisfaction to the consumer and how can s/he propose a prolonged use time of the product to the consumer? Firstly identifying the attributes associated with satisfaction and including them in the design is the most important strategy.Secondly identifying the determinants that lead t