服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献.docx

服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献.docx

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服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献

服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献

文献信息：

文文

献献

标标

题题

：

：

ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption（可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计）

国外作者：

KirsiNiinimäki

文献出处：

《NordicTe____tileJournal》，20________，1:

60-69.　字数统计：

英文3104单词，17881字符；中文5737汉字

外文文献：

ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption

Abstract

Thisarticlepresentsastudythatinvestigatesproductsatisfactionin

theconte____tofclothing.Thepaperfurthermorepresentssuggestionsonhowthisknowledgecanbeusedtocreateproactivefashiondesignforsustainableconsumption.Oneofthemainchallengesintoday’sconsumersocietyishowtodesignproductsthatencourageconsumerstoengageinmoreenvironmentallyresponsiblebehaviour,sustainableconsumption.Thispaperopensthediscussiononhowtochangecurrentunsustainableconsumptionbehaviourrelatedtoclothingthroughavisionary,far-sighteddesignapproach.Designerscancreatefuture-orientedsustainabledesignsthatcantransformconsumptionpatternstowardsmoresustainableones.Designforsustainabilitycanthusbearedirectivepracticethataimsforsustainableconsumption,andthewaysinwhichfashiondesigncanbeaproactiveprocesswiththisaimwillbedescribed.Keywords:

proactivedesign,sustainabledesign,sustainableconsumption,emotionalsatisfaction,PSS.

Introduction

Productsconfigureconsumerneedsandusepatterns;hence,designcanbesaidtobe“practice-oriented”,creatingcertaineverydaypracticesandconsumption

behaviour（Shoveetal.20__,134–136）.Currentindustrialdesignandmass-manufacturingsystemsstimulateconsumerismandtheproductionofdisposableproducts（Walker20__,51）.Fastchangingtrendsleadtoconsumers’unsustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Tocreateanew,sustainablebalancebetweendesign,manufacturingandconsumption,alternativewaystocreateproductsarerequiredtodrivemoresustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Therefore,designersshouldevaluatehoweachdesigndecisionaffectsaconsumer’sconsumptionpatterns.Understoodinthisway,sustainabledesigncanbearedirectiveoraproactivepracticethataimsforsustainablepracticesinconsumption（Fry2021,53）.Higherproductionvolumesandsimultaneousgrowingconsumptionhavecausedanincreaseinmaterialconsumption（Throne-Holstetal.20__）.Ever-changingfashiontrends,affordableproductpricesandlow-qualityproductscauseconsumerstoengageinunsustainableconsumptionbehaviour,suchasimpulsepurchases,overconsumption,shortusetimeandprematuredisposalofproducts.Theincreaseinthepurchaseofshort-lifespanproductsresultsinanotableincreaseinwaste.Currently,appro____imately70percentofdisposedclothingandte____tilesendupinlandfills,andinmanyWesterncountriesclothingandte____tilewasteisestimatedtobethefastestgrowingwastestream（Fletcher2021,98）.Consumersdiscardgamentsnotonlybecausetheyarewornoutbutalsobecausetheyactivelyseeknovelty.Nevertheless,productdurabilityandlongtermuseareprerequisitesforsustainableconsumption:

i.e.e____tendingthelifespanofproductsisessentialwhenthegoalissustainableconsumption（Cooper20__）.Importantly,however,consumersassociatedurabilitywithhighqualityandnotwithenvironmentalimpact.Emotionslieatthecentreofhumanlife,andtheyinfluencemostofourbehaviours,motivationsandthoughtprocesses（Desmet2021,379）.Emotionsalso

playastrongroleinconsumption.Theinterplaybetweenwants,needs,values,attitudesande____periencesisemotionallymeaningfulforacontemporaryconsumer.Clothingandfashionitemsbelongtothecategoryofself-e____pressiveproducts,andwithsuchproducts,consumption-relatedemotionsareimportanttotheconsumer.AsRichins（2021）argued,theseconsumptionemotionsareimportantelementsincontemporarysocietyandespeciallyafterthepurchaseevent.Thepurchasesituationbeesastrongpositivee____perienceforaconsumer,butitisveryshortterminnatureandhasnoconnectiontothee____perienceofdeepersatisfactionorperson–productattachment（ibid）.Throughanewpurchaseevent,theconsumercanagaine____periencee____citement,enjoyment,joyandpleasure,atleastmomentarily.Fromanenvironmentalpointofview,studyingconsumptionpatternsandthe

meaningsofconsumptionisimportantwhensustainedpositiveemotionsinperson–productrelationshipsaredesiredorsolutionsaresoughttoreplacematerialisticconsumptionwithotherpositiveemotionalstates.Thedesignprocessshouldfocusonsustainableconsumersatisfactionwithaproductorwiththeperson–productattachmentprocess.Moreover,anewkindofproductservicesystem（PSS）shouldbedevelopedthataimstoprolongtheenjoyableusetimeoftheproduct.APSSstrategycanalsooffertheconsumernewemotionale____periences,whichcanpostponethedisposaloftheproduct;PSSthinkingcantherebyaimtoavoidanewgarmentpurchase,whichisanopportunitytodecreasematerialisticconsumption.　SustainableSatisfactionwithClothing

Ifcurrentunsustainableconsumptionpatternsaretobetransformedintomoresustainableones,thewaysinwhichdesigncanoffersustainablesatisfactionmustbeinvestigated.Togainadeeperunderstandingoftheopportunitiestodeliversatisfactionbydesignandhowtheenjoyableuseofgarmentscanbee____tended,thesatisfactionprocessmustfirstbee____plained.

AccordingtoSwanandbs（1976）,theperformanceofclothingcanbeseparated

into

instrumental

performance

（physical

properties）

and

e____pressiveperformance.E____pressiveperformanceislinkedtoaconsumer’spsychologicalresponsetothegarment,suchasthee____perienceofbeauty.Instrumentalrequirements（e.g.qualitye____pectations）mustbesatisfiedfirst.Nevertheless,onlyfulfillinginstrumentalrequirementswillnotresultinsatisfaction.Thereforeclothingmust

alsomeetconsumers’emotionalneedsifitistodeliversatisfaction（Swanandbs1976）.Hencegoodintrinsicqualityisoptimalforensuringconsumersatisfactionandtoguaranteethelongevityofclothing.Highqualitymeansdurablematerialsandhighmanufacturingquality.Theageingprocessofapleasant,aestheticgarmentrequiresnotonlymaintaininghighintrinsicqualitybutalsothedesignofamoreclassicalstyleanduseofdurablematerials.Somete____tilematerialslookoldafterashortusetime.Thematerialmighte____periencepillingormaylookoldafterafewwashes.Garmentsneedingfrequentwashingmaylookoldratherquickly;therefore,recognisingmaterialsthatageinamoreaestheticallypleasingmannerisimportant.Studieshaveshown（Niinimäki2021）thatconsumerse____periencee.g.woolandrealleathertoageinanaestheticallypleasantway.Consumersreportthatwithhighqualitywooltheageingprocessdoesnotshowasobviouslyandinleathertheageingprocessise____periencedasanattractivetemporaldimension（ibid.）.Consumersrespectaestheticattributesinthelong-termuseofclothing,andaestheticattributescorrespondtoe____pressiveperformanceinclothingsatisfaction.Accordingly,e____pressiveperformanceaffectsthepsychologicalresponsetoclothing.Theaestheticattributesthatcorrelatetothelongevityofclothingaregoodfit,personalcut,nicecoloursandfortablematerials,aswellasaclassiclook（seeTable1）.Garmenttactilityisimportanttothewearerandapleasanttactilee____perienceduringtheusesituationisoneattributeforenjoyablelong-termuseofclothing.TableI:

Attributesthatenablelongevityinclothing

Theattributesthatenablelongevityinclothingarethefollowing:

Quality:

DurablematerialsDurabilityinuseDurabilityinlaunderingHighmanufacturingquality

Functionality:

EasymaintenanceSuitabilityintheusesituation（physiologicalandpsychologicalsuitability）

Satisfyingusee____perience

Beauty,style,colour,fitAestheticE____pressivebeautyaboveaverageattributes:

Tactilee____perience

fortablematerialsValues:

Product’svalueshavetomeetconsumer’spersonalvaluesNotonlyquality,functionalityandaestheticsareimportantattributes;thevaluesbehindtheproductarealsoimportanttoconsumersatisfaction.Clothingchoicesmustconnectstronglywiththewearer’sself-image,identityandvalues.WangandWallendorf（20__）havearguedthatconsumerswithhighmaterialisticvaluesseeknoveltyandevaluatetheirpossessionsmoreoftenthanconsumerswithlowermaterialisticvalues.Theyalsohighlightthatmaterialisticconsumershavelessappreciationfordeeperperson–productrelationshipsthatdevelopduringlongerusesituations.Consumers’materialisticvaluesmayalsoconnectwithsocialstatus-relatedelementsingarmentsandpossessions.Consumerswithlowermaterialisticvaluesmayhavegreaterappreciationforthepersonalmeaningsattributabletotheproductthatemergeduringlong-termuse（Wang&;Wallendorf20__）.Consumerswithhighenvironmentalandethicalinterestsplacehighimportanceonbeingabletofindenvironmentalvaluebehindaproduct.Theseconsumersrespectcredencequalityattributes–localandethicalproduction,eco-materialsandlonggarmentlifespans–andtheywanttoseetheseattributesandenvironmentalvaluesintheproductstheypurchase.Thevalueaspectismostimportantandconsumers’valuee____pectations

shouldbefulfilledtocreatedeepproductsatisfaction（Niinimäki2021）.　FashionDesignforSustainableSatisfaction

Howcanadesigneroffersustainablesatisfactiontotheconsumerandhowcans/heproposeaprolongedusetimeoftheproducttotheconsumer?

Firstlyidentifyingtheattributesassociatedwithsatisfactionandincludingtheminthedesignisthemostimportantstrategy.Secondlyidentifyingthedeterminantsthatleadt