名词对照表.docx

1、名词对照表.名詞對照表胸 圍 Bust腰 圍 Waist臀 圍 Hips前 胸 寬 Front Width背 寬 Back Width肩 寬 Shoulder後頸點至腰 C.B.N-Waist頸肩點至腰 N.S.P-Waist頸 圍 Neck下 臂 長 Sleeve Underarm臂 圍 Sleeve Muscle 裙 長 Long Skirt內側褲長 Inside Trouser Leg由肩點量袖長 Over Shoulder Sleeve Measure (總袖長) 背 長 Length of Back前 身 長 Length of Front背 寬 Breadth of Back肘 長

2、 Elbow開 襠 處 Rise頸 點 至 腰 Neck to Waist身 長 Height實 際 腰 圍 Nat Waist腰 帶 Waist Band褲 長 Trousers Side- seam Without Band (不算腰帶寬) . 制衣專有名詞:Jersey wear 針Woven 梭織Knitwear/Sweater 毛衫Accessory 配件Solid 凈色Print 印花Embroidery 繡花Beading 釘珠M/C Embroidery 机繡Hand crochet 手鉤Embellishment 裝飾類Princess line 公主線Outseam, in

3、seam. 外骨, 里骨.Grain line 布紋Straight grain 直紋Cross grain 橫紋Bias cutting 斜紋裁Shiny 反光Twist 扭曲Hiking 吊起Tight 緊的Loose 鬆的Stretched 拉鬆Puckering 容?Unbalance 不平衡Check match 對格Stripe match 對條Vertical buttonhole 直鈕門Horizontal buttonhole 橫鈕門Seam allowance 子口Interlining 朴Elastic 丈巾Main label 主嘜Content label 成分嘜Ca

4、re label 洗水麥Thread 線Zipper 拉鏈Spare button 士啤鈕Interface 內貼Lining 里布Shoulder pad 肩墊Tissue paper 拷貝紙Price ticket 價錢牌Hangtag 挂牌Poly bag 膠袋Hanger 衣架Inner box 內箱Carton 紙箱Dye to match=D.T.M配色Double turn 還口Fabric defects 布疵Rough yarn 粗紗 Color yarn 色紗Buying/Photo shoot/Fitting/Grades/Gold seals/Mock shop銷售/影

5、像/尺寸/齊碼尺寸/落貨前/展覽 辦Pilot/Wearer trial 頭版/試穿辦CAD SystemFour points systemPre-shrinkage m/cFabric hangerColor continuity cardFusing m/cThermal paperWorkshopPre-production meetingStraight-line productionLockstitch-Single/Twin needleOverlock-3/4/5 threadTwin ndl seam cover-flat bed/ Cylinder arm4 ndl fla

6、t lock 哈鬚Bar TackButton sew-lockstitch /ChainstitchBotton hole-lockstitch/Key holeZig zagBlind hemM/c maintenance/service-mechanicHand steam iron with vacuumSpot cleaning Metal detector . 各部份疵點總匯 Collar 領常見領形Crew neck 圓領 Notch collar 國民領V-neck v領 Shawl collar 菜瓜領Boat Neck 船形領 Turtle neck 高翻領U-neck u

7、領 Sailor Collar 水手領Square neck 方領 Peter-Pan collar 小飛俠領Draped cowl 挂帽領 Chinese Collar 旗袍領Wing collar 翼 領 Shirt collar 襯衫領Italian Roll 意大利卷型領 V-with collar v翻領領位評語Unbalance collar 領不平衡Asymmetric collar 領位不對稱Uneven collar width 左右領闊不一致Uneven neckline 左右領圈不一致Uneven collar point 領尖不對稱Uneven lapel shapes

8、 左右前領咀形狀不一樣Too much easing at C.F. neckline 前領口溶位太多(有太多溶位於前中領窩)Collar too tight at CB 後領中太緊Collar band is twisting 領座扭曲不平順Fullness at front collar and lapel 領及前領咀不平順Neckline is not smooth 領圈不圓順Neck setting not smooth 領子裝得不平順High & low back neck 後領圈有高低Edge of front opening is crooked 前門領邊不直Front open

9、ing not straight 前門領邊不直Front facing is exposed at bottom hem 前門領貼在下擺處外露Front opening facing is shorter than body 前門領貼短於大身Neck was stretched 領圈拉松Too much tie on front collar 前領處有豁口Sleeve & Armhole 袖&夾Puckering at left/right armhole 左右夾圈有溶位不平伏.Too loose at right armhole, uneven for left/right armhole

10、右夾圈有拉松, 左右夾圈不相稱.Sleeve running to back(衣袖走後) / Sleeve running to front(衣袖走前) 操兵袖Too loose at front sleeve seam 前袖骨拉松Too tight at back sleeve seam 後袖骨過緊.Poor cuff setting 卡夫裝得不好Sleeve placket is not set well 袖叉裝得不好Underarm seam was stretched 袖底縫被拉松Armhole setting not smooth 袖孔不圓順Ease on sleeve cap is

11、 uneven 袖頂縮拱不均勻Front/back 前後幅Hiking at front, CF facing too short 吊襟Hiking at back, lining too short 吊裡Curve at CF zip(too much fullness at CF zip) 前中拉鏈溶位太多Curve at CF zipper because of no easing of zipper. 前中拉鏈無溶位(引致紐曲)Hiking at back / Hiking at front 後幅吊起 / 前幅吊起Front panel is bigger than under pan

12、el(lining) 前幅底幅細面幅松Lining too big, too short, too small, too long 裡布太大, 太短, 太小, 太長Grain lines are not match at front & back panel 前後幅布紋不相稱Front length uneven 左右前長不一致Too loose at shell, Too loose at back/lining, turn insider out 底松, 面鬆, 向外反Hem 衫腳Seam binding stitch tension is too tight, causing botto

13、m not smooth. 下擺絲帶過緊, 使下擺不平順Bottom hem is not in line / not straight. 下腳不夠不平(直)Twisting hem, puckering at hem 下腳紐紋起豆角.Uneven hem 左右下擺高低不一Vent length uneven 左右開叉長短不一Uneven leg length 長短腳Uneven hem line 衫腳不平均 / 不對稱Pocket 袋 High-low pocket 高低袋Both pocket set uneven 左右口袋裝得高低不一Pocket not smooth / squared

14、 袋不平服/不夠正方Pocket flap not centered over pocket 袋蓋不正中Both pocket shapes are uneven 左右口袋形狀不一致Bottom part of pocket is sagging 口袋下部下垂Pocket flap is misplaced 袋邊位置不對Pocket is misplaced 口袋位置不對Pocket is smiling 袋口開得不吻合Pocket opening is fray 袋口有毛口Pocket shape distorted 口袋變形Pocket size and shape is not foll

15、ow sample exactly 口袋的尺寸及形狀未按照實樣做Pocket welt is uneven 上下袋唇不均勻Poor pocket setting 口袋裝得不好Binding 拉捆Piping is uneven 捆邊不均勻Piping is twisting and not smooth 捆邊扭曲不平順Pleats 縮褶 Uneven shirring at back waist seam後腰縮碎褶不均勻。Shirring 碎褶Elastic shirring is uneven 橡筋縮拱不均勻Both side pleats not balance 左右褶位不一致Darts

16、placement is not follow sample exactly 褶位未按照實樣做Pleats is misplaced 褶位不對Shirring / Gathering 縮褶Pleated 生褶Darts 死褶 Beading & embroidery 釘珠&繡花 Beads stitching are not secure 珠子未釘牢Embroidery stitching is too tight 繡花線太緊Embroidery stitching too loose 繡花線太松 SHADING DEFECTS 色差問題 1) Color shading 色差2) Color

17、 shading within one garment. 同一件衣服內有色差。3) Color shading between trims and body. 配件與衫身之間有色差。4) Shade differs from approved standard. 顏色與批核色版不同。5) Shading caused by poor color interlining matching. 紙朴顏色不配合, 引致色差。ACCESSORIES 輔料問題 1) Missing button / label / badge 漏鈕 / 漏嘜頭 / 漏章2) Button position not wel

18、l match buttonhole. 鈕與鈕門位置欠配合3) Button inside out 鈕的底面倒置4) Button marking not removed. 點鈕筆痕沒有清除5) Damaged button/buttonhole 鈕爛/爛鈕門6) Rusted stud 工字鈕生銹7) Paint peel off on stud 工字鈕顏色脫落8) Button and buttonhole not aligned cause bulge. 鈕及鈕門位置不配合, 引致谷起9) Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass thro

19、ugh. 鈕門太細, 鈕不能順利通過10) Uncut buttonhole / partially cut buttonhole 鈕門未幵 / 鈕門未開盡11) Ragged edges at buttonhole 鈕門紗線不清12) Broken buttonhole stitches 鈕門斷線13) Button thread easily pulled out. 釘鈕線容易拉脫14) Snap / rivet easily pulled off.吸鈕、撞鈕容易拉脫15) Buttonhole is not match button size 鈕洞尺寸與鈕扣大小不相配16) Button

20、 misplaced 鈕扣位置不對17) Buttonhole misplaced 鈕洞位置不對18) Button is not sewing security 鈕扣未釘牢19) Button is sewn too tight 鈕扣釘得太緊20) Buttonhole is fray 鈕洞有毛口21) Key buttonhole density is too loose 鳳眼鈕洞的車縫線步太疏22) Key buttonhole is misplaced 鳳眼鈕洞位置不對23) Snap misplaced ?鈕位置不對24) Snap tape is misplaced 撳鈕扁帶位置不

21、對25) Snap tape setting not well 撳鈕扁帶裝得不好26) There is bubble on buttonhole area 鈕洞周圍有氣泡27) Hood and bar is misplaced 裙扣位置不對28) Hole at zip top / end 拉鏈頂 / 尾有洞29) Zipper setting is twisting 拉鏈裝得扭曲30) Shoulder pad not attach to garment security 肩棉未釘牢31) Shoulder pad not cover well 肩棉未包好32) Velcro is mi

22、splaced 么朮貼位置不對33) Waistband belt is not set straight 腰耳裝得不直34) Waistband belt length and width are uneven 腰耳的長、寬不一致35) Incomplete adhesive on interlining. 黏朴未完全黏好36) Strike through of adhesive on interlining. 黏朴膠露面37) Strike back of adhesive on interlining. 黏朴脫落38) Blistering occurred on interlinin

23、g. 黏朴起泡39) Insecure shoulder pad attached. 肩棉釘縫不穩40) Label placement incorrect. 嘜頭位置不正確41) Care label content not as specified. 成份嘜內容不符合要求42) Main label and size/content label are set too closed 主嘜與尺碼成份嘜裝得太靠近43) Main label setting is misplace 釘主嘜不井齊44) Wrong care label sewn on garment. 成份嘜車錯位置45) La

24、bel not properly secured. 嘜頭車縫不穩46) Label sewn beyond label edge. 嘜頭車縫太入47) Label sewing seam uneven / puckered. 嘜頭車縫不平均或起皺48) Wrong accessories used. 用錯輔料Button out of line. 鈕位不成直線STITCHING AND SEAMS 線步和骨位 1) Raw edge 散口2) Raw edges 爆口3) Untrimmed thread ends 線頭未剪4) Skipped stitches 跳線5) Exposed st

25、itching 露線6) Broken stitches 斷線7) Run-off stitches 間線落坑8) Crooked stitches 線步彎曲9) Poor join stitching 駁線欠佳10) Unsightly over-lapping stitches 駁線不良11) Stitches too loose 線步太松12) Stitches too tight 線步太緊13) Distorted stitches 車線不直14) Broken seams 縫線爆幵15) Expose stitch 落坑線外露16) Inconsistent stitching 線步

26、不一致17) Uneven width on double stitching 雙線闊窄不均18) Uneven stitching density / tension 線步密度 / 鬆緊度不平均19) 1/4 top stitch not even 1/4面線有寬窄20) Expose safety stitch 保險線外露21) Inseam is uneven 內縫線不井齊22) Merrow stitch density is too big 撥邊線步太疏23) Overlap stitch is not well 反縫的接線不好24) Top & under stitch tensi

27、on not match 底面線力不相符25) Uneven merrow seam 內撥邊線彎曲不直26) Missing reinforcement stitches 漏車加固線步27) Row of stitching missing top stitch 漏車一行線平車線28) Stitch count less than standard 線步較標準少29) All top stitch is uneven 所有的面線都不均勻30) Blind stitch is broken 筒針有斷線現象31) Blind stitch is wavy 筒線彎曲不直32) Shoulder se

28、am not smooth 小肩縫彎曲不直33) Uneven folded width at bottom sweep 1/2hemming. 折車1/2腳圍闊窄34) Blind stitching visible 挑腳線露面35) Incomplete seam stitching 線步不到尾36) Uneven for hem closure stitching, uneven stitch at hem 下腳車線不直37) Exposed waistband running stitches 裙頭/褲頭見坑線38) Not straight at front fly 褲鈕牌車線不順直

29、39) Not straight at back yoke 後擔干車線不直, 紐曲40) Skipping stitches, looping stitches 跳線, 車線太鬆起耳仔41) Seam allowance, sewing thread too tight 子口補間線, 線太緊起豆角42) Pleated seam 骨位打褶43) Puckered seam 骨位起皺44) Open seam 爆骨45) Burst seam 爆骨46) Under seam visible 底骨露面47) Waviness on seams 骨位起波浪48) Twisted seams / S

30、eam rolling 扭骨49) Twisting at side seam, Wavy at side seam 側骨紐, 不順直.50) Seam closures uneven 骨位結尾不平均51) Missing bar-tack 漏打棗52) Seam not properly secured 骨位不牢固53) Fullness on seams 骨位太谷, 不平伏54) Seam not fully opened before stitching. 骨位未完全撥開間線55) Cracked seam 骨位拉時有響聲(引致斷線)56) Too loose at princess s

31、eam 前公主骨拉松起泡57) Puckering at back princess seam 後公主骨溶位太多, 起皺/起豆角58) Too tight or too loose at side seam. 側骨車線太緊或太鬆59) Too loose at CF / CB seam 前中/後中骨太松60) Too loose at shoulder seam, unbalance of front & back panel at shoulder seam 肩骨拉松(要落定位)61) Too flat at shoulder seam, too slant of shoulder seam 肩骨太平/太斜