纺织服装外文翻译文献.docx

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纺织服装外文翻译文献

外文文献翻译完整版译文3200多字

（含：

英文原文及中文译文）

文献出处：

KarF,FanJ,YuW.Comparisonofdifferenttestmethodsforthemeasurementoffabricorgarmentmoisturetransferproperties[J].MeasurementScience&Technology,2007,18（7）:

2033.

英文原文

Comparisonofdifferenttestmethodsforthemeasurementoffabricorgarmentmoisturetransferproperties

FKar,JFanandWYu

Abstract

Severaltestmethodsexistfordeterminingthewatervapourpermeabilityorresistanceoftextilefabricsorgarments.Thedifferencesandinterrelationshipsbetweenthesemethodsarenotalwaysclear,whichpresentsaproblemincomparingresultsfromdifferenttestmethods.Thisstudyisaimedatinvestigatingtherelationshipsbetweenthetestresultsfromfourtypicaltestmethods,includingthemoisturetransmissiontest（ModelCS-141）,ASTME96cupmethod,sweatingguardedhotplatemethod（ISO11092）andthesweatingfabricmanikin（Walter）.Fortherangeofairpermeableknittedfabricstested,itwasfoundthatgoodinterrelationshipsexistbetweentheresultsfromthefourtypesoftestmethods,althoughsomediscrepanciesexistbetweendifferenttestsduetodifferencesintestingconditions.Testresultsfromdifferentmoisturetransfertestmethodscanthereforebeconvertiblewithdueconsideration.

Keywords:

fabric,watervapourtransmissionrate,clothingcomfort,watervapourresistance

1.Introduction

Moisturetransferpropertiesoftextilefabricsandgarmentsareimportanttothethermalcomfortofclothedpersons.Anumberoftestmethodshavebeendevelopedtoevaluatethemoisturetransferpropertiesoftextilefabricsandgarments.However,sincethetechniquesandtestingconditionsofthesetestsareverydifferent,resultsfromthesetestsarenotdirectlycomparable.Itisthereforenecessarytoinvestigatethedifferencesandinterrelationshipsbetweentheresultsfromthesedifferenttestmethods.

DolhancomparedtwoCanadianStandards（CAN2-4.2-M77andCAN/CGSB-4.2No.49-M91）andtheASTME96testmethodsformeasuringthewatervapourtransmissionpropertiesandfoundthattheresultsofthesetestswerenotdirectlycomparablebecauseofthedifferencesinthewatervapourpressuregradientsdrivingthemoisturetransmissioninthedifferenttestmethodsGibson[8]conductedanextensiveinvestigationontherelationshipofthetestresultsfromthesweatingguardedhotplate（ISO11092）andthosefromtheASTME96CupMethod.Inhiswork,permeablematerials,hydrophobicandhydrophilicmembranelaminatesweretestedandtheresultswerestandardizedintheunitsofairresistanceandwatervapourtransmissionrate.Itwasfound,exceptforthehydrophilicsamples,thereisaclearcorrelationbetweentheresultsfromthetwotests.Asthetestconditionintheguardedsweatinghotplatetestsresultedinmuchhigherequilibriumwatercontentinthehydrophilicpolymerlayer,whichinfluencesthepolymer’spermeability,thewatervapourtransmissionratethroughthehydrophilicmembraneisgreaterwhentestedusingthesweatingguardedhotplate.Aspointedoutbyanumberofpreviousresearchers[7,12],differentrelativehumiditygradientspresentinthevarioustestmethodscausetheintrinsictransportcharacteristicsofhydrophilicpolymerstochange.Forsuchfabrics,theretendtobepoorcorrelationsbetweendifferenttestmethodsthatemploydifferingrelativehumiditygradients,sincetheresistanceisafunctionofthewatervapourconcentrationandtemperature.Consequently,Lomax[11]pointedouttheneedforinvestigatingthecorrelationsofresultsfromdifferenttestmethodsfordifferenttypesoffabrics.

Grettonetal[9]classifiedthefabricsamplesintofourcategories,includingairpermeablefabrics,microporousmembranelaminatedfabrics,hydrophilicmembranelaminated/coatedfabricsandhybridcoated/laminatedfabrics,ininvestigatingthecorrelationbetweenthetestresultsofthesweatingguardedhotplate（ISO11092）andtheevaporativedishmethod（BS7209）.TheyshowedthatthereisagoodcorrelationbetweenthetwotestmethodsforallfabricsexceptforthehydrophiliccoatedandlaminatedfabricsthattransmitwatervapourwithoutfollowingtheFickianlawofdiffusion.

Recently,Indushekaretal[10]comparedthewatervapourtransmissionratesmeasuredbyamodulateddifferentialscanningcalorimeterandthosebytheconventionaldishtechniqueasspecifiedinBS7209forawiderangeofwovenbasedfabricsusedincoldweatherprotectiveclothing.Thestudyshowedthatresultsfromthesetwotestmethodsdifferwidelyduetothedifferencesinthewatervapourgradientswhichoccurredinthetwomethods.

Withthedevelopmentofnoveltechniquesforthemeasurementofmoisturetransmissionpropertiesoffabricsandgarments,itisnecessarytofurtherinvestigatetherelationshipbetweendifferenttestmethods.Thepresentstudywasthereforeaimedatinvestigatingthecorrelationsbetweenthemoisturevapourresistances/transmissionratesmeasuredusingthenewlydevelopedsweatingfabricmanikin（Walter）[4,6],themoisturetransmissiontest（ModelCS-141）[1],theASTME96testingmethod[2]andthesweatingguardedhotplatemethod[5].Sincethecorrelationsbetweenthemoisturevapourresistances/transmissionratestestedusingthedifferenttestmethodsaregenerallydifferentfordifferentcategoriesoffabrics,thepresentinvestigationisfocusedonairpermeablefunctionalT-shirttypefabrics

2.Methods

2.1.Samples

FourinterlockandfoursinglejerseyfunctionalT-shirtfabricswerechosenfromcommercialsourcesfortheexperiment.ThesamplesrepresenttypicalT-shirtfabricsinthemarket.Thefabricsweresewnintolong-sleevedT-shirtsforthetestsonthesweatingfabricmanikin（Walter）andthewearertrialexperiments.Table1liststhecharacteristicsofthefabricsusedinthisstudy.

2.2ExperimentalMeasurement

2.2.1MoistureTransferTestMethod（ModelCS-141）

TheinstrumentmoisturetransfertesterusedinthistestwasdevelopedbyLudlow.Thecompanyclaimsthatthisinstrumentcanquicklyandeasilydeterminethewatertransferrateofafabric.Thistestisbasedon"gaspermeabilitylaw".Thisrulereferstothemasstransferratioandtheabilityofthefabrictoblockmoisturepenetration,thepressuredifferencebetweentheupperandlowersidesofthefabric,andthethicknessofthefabric.Figure1showsthestructureofthemoisturetransfertester.SmallenclosedwatertanksTheclipsonbothsidessandwichthefabricsampleinthemiddleofitsverticaldirection.Underneaththefabricisdistilledwater,whichislessthanhalftheheightofthesink.Aboveistheairthathasbeendriedwithdesiccantatthebeginningofthetest.Theheightoftheairgapbetweenthesurfaceofthewaterinthetankandthelowersurfaceofthematerialis10mm.Thetankwasplacedinachamberwithatemperatureof20°Candarelativehumidityof65%.Duringtheexperiment,moisturewastransferredfromthewetside（belowthefabric）throughthefabricsampletothedryside（abovethefabric）andthehumiditysensormaintainedthemonitoringofhumiditychangesintheupperpartofthetank.Duringthetimewhenthehumidityincreasedfrom50%to60%,theriseinrelativehumiditywasrecordedevery3minutes.Theratioofgasperhourperm2ofsteamintermsofgcanbecalculatedbytakingthedataintotheequationbelow.

T=（269×10−7）（Δ%RH×60/t）（H）/（100×0.02252）

（1）

Where:

Δ%RH—averageoftherelativehumiditydifferencebetweentheupperandlowerhalves;t—thetimeintervalbetweentwosuccessfuldatareads（t=3min）;H—watercontentperunitvolumeofthetank（H=45.74gm-3）.

2.2.2.AmericanMaterialsandTestingAssociationE96verticalcupmethod

Thismethodisaverycommonmethodfortestingthemoisturetransferpropertiesoffabrics.Thismethodcanbeusedtodeterminetherateofvapor-watertransportintheverticaldirectionofthefabricunderconditionsofconstantambienthumidity,constanthumidityandaknownfabricarea.Figure2showstheprincipleofthistestmethod.Acupfilledwithdistilledwatercoveredbyfabricsampleswasplacedinanadjustableenvironmentwithatemperatureof20°Candarelativehumidityof65%.Atthebeginningoftheexperiment,80gofwaterwaspouredintothecup,whichdeterminedthedistancefromthelowersurfaceofthefabrictothewatersurfacetobe19mm.Thetestlastedforfivedays,duringwhichtimethequalityofeachcupwasrecordedonceaday.Thevaporouswatertransferrate（WVTR）persquaremeterperhourcanbeobtainedbytakingthedataintotheequationbelow.

WVTR=G/tA

（2）

Where:

G—thevalueofthechangeintheweightofthecupcoveredbythefabric;t—thedurationofthechangeinthemassofthecup,measuredinh;A—theareaof​​thefabricsampletestedinm2.

2.2.3.Newthermalresistancewetresistanceinstrumenttestmethod

ThenewthermalresistancewetresistanceinstrumentwasdevelopedbyFanetal.ThisinstrumentcomplieswiththetestrequirementsspecifiedinISO（InternationalOrganizationforStandardization）11092.Comparedwiththeconventionalheatresistanceandmoistureresistanceinstrument,itmakesitpossibletosimultaneouslyperformsimulationtestsonheatlossduetomoistureevaporationandmoistureevaporationloss.Inaddition,theinstrumentcanbeoperatedatsubzerotemperatures.Figure3showstheconstructionandworkingprincipleoftheinstrument.

Ascanbeseenfromthemeasurementofevaporativeheatloss,thetotalmoistureresistanceofthefabricsampleplacedontheporousboard,sandwichedbetweentheartificialskinandtheairlayercanbeobtainedbytakingthedataintothefollowingformula.

EasassetH）H-PA（P=R（3）where:

Ret-totalmoistureresista