服装英文翻译.docx

服装英文翻译.docx

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服装英文翻译

本科生毕业论文（英文文献翻译）

题目时尚与人体工学设计：

影响的方面服装可用性

学院轻纺与食品学院

专业服装设计与工程

学生姓名钟炯

学号*************年级2012级

指导教师李晓蓉

教务处制表

二Ο一六年六月三日

6thInternationalConferenceonAppliedHumanFactorsandErgonomics（AHFE2015）andtheAffiliatedConferences,AHFE2015

FashionandErgonomicDesign:

Aspectsthatinfluencetheperceptionofclothingusability

ÉricaP.dasNevesa*,AlineC.Brigattoa,LuisC.Paschoarellia

aUNESP–Univ.EstadualPaulista,Av.Eng.LuizEdmundoC.Coube14-01,Bauru17033-360,Brazil

Abstract

Therelevantissuesaboutclothinghavebeenincreasinginrecenttimes.Theincreasenumberofconsumersandusersthatsearchfordifferentiatedandappropriateproductstotheirneedsandexpectationsisimpactingonthedesignstagesaswellasonmanufacturingprocess.Thustheunderstandingofspecifiedsegmentsofconsumersandusersemergesasacompetitivestrategythatisfavourabletothedevelopmentofproductsthatareadequateandsatisfactorytodifferentindividuals.Regardingthefashioncontext,theclothingproductprovidestotheemotionallevelchannelsofsignificationandsubjectiveidentification.Consideringthedirectcontactbetweenclothinganduser,theinformationaboutanthropometricbiomechanicalandergonomicareofextremerelevanceforthedevelopmentofmodellingthatareappropriatedtodifferentneedsofdifferentsegmentsofusers.

©2015TheAuthors.PublishedbyElsevierB.V.

Peer-reviewunderresponsibilityofAHFEConference.

Keywords:

Fashion,ErgonomicDesign,Anthropometric,Usability

1.Introduction

Therelevantissuesaboutclothinghavebeenincreasinginrecenttimes.Theincreasenumberofconsumersandusersthatsearchfordifferentiatedandappropriateproductstotheirneedsandexpectationsisimpactingonthedesignstagesaswellasonmanufacturingprocess.

Thustheunderstandingofspecifiedsegmentsofconsumersandusersemergesasacompetitivestrategythatisfavorabletothedevelopmentofproductsthatareadequateandsatisfactorytodifferentindividuals.Consideringthedirectintegrationoftheclothingwiththeskinandthetopographyofthebody,thegarmentgeneratesvalueofjudgmentinherenttotheperceptionoftheaspectsofusability,pleasantness,comfort,enjoymentandsatisfactionregardingtheneedsofthesubject.

Fromthisprinciple,ergonomicdesignprovidestoolsthatwhenappliedduringthestagesofclothingconception,maybeabletodirectmorepreciselythecharacteristicsoftheproductinfavorofsafety,efficiencyandcomfort.Inordertounderstandthecomplexityoftheintegrationofbodyandclothing,thestudyofanatomyandbodymovementarenecessary.Itisimportanttounderstandthebalanceplansoftheentirebodyaswellastheitsmovementssuchasflexion,extensionandother[1].

Inthisway,themultiandinterdisciplinaryinteractionbetweenprojectofclothingandergonomicdesigncontributestotheprogressandtotheresolutionoftheprojectofclothingprojects.Theunderstandingsoftheconceptsofusability,comfortandergonomicswhicharespecificofcertaingroups（niches）arenecessaryinordertoobtainfashionpatternsthatadequatelymeetstotheirexpectationandrequirements.

1.1.ThemetamorphosisofFashion

Throughouttheevolutionofsocieties,fashioncontributedtotheidentificationofsocialandidentityroleofthesubjectsbyhierarchicaluseofdifferentclothesandaccessories.Itssymboliccharacterisareflectionofsubjectiveandculturalaspirationsofacertainperiod,which,inturn,significantlyreflectonthephysicalandconstructiveaspectsoffashionproducts,especiallyclothing.

Withrespecttothesymbolic,physicalandmaterialsaspectsofclothing,itcanbenoticedaninfinityoftransformationthatexpressedthesocial,culturalandtechnologicalcontextofagivenperiod.Ingeneral,theclothinghasgonethroughaprocessofsimplification,especiallyfromthedecadeof1800.Thisphenomenonisprimarilyduetonewindustrialtechnologies,tohigherdemandsofproductsandtotheadaptationtonewmanufacturingprocess.

Asanexample,therevolutioninwomen'sclothingledbyFrenchdesignerPaulPoiretintheearlytwentiethcenturycanbementioned.Thankstothefashioncreator,thewomen'sclothesweresimplifiedbecominglighter,thusfacilitatingthemovementsofbody[2].Thefashioninnovationbrokewiththerigidstructureofthecorsetsthatmadepressureonwoman’sabdomeninordertocreateanddefineaslimwaist,aprotuberantbustandastraightposture.Thestylistalsoproposedalightersilhouette,deepernecklines（mainlythe"V”model）,apparentshoulder,ampleshapes,andothermodelingvariations.

Ingeneral,throughouthistory,avarietyofsocial,culturalandprofessionalpracticeshavecontributedtoamoreefficientandrealisticviewabouttheneedsoftheindividualandoftheirdailytasks.Duetothistrendandtheindustriallogicoflarge-scaleproductionbetween1950and1960,thefashionhasbecomemoredemocratic,andtherefore,theuserbegantobeperceivedwithmorerelevancebycompaniesinthesector.

ThenewphasewascharacterizedbywhatcametobeknowninFranceasprêt-à-porter,andintheUnitedStatesasreadytowear.Rigidity,ostentationandexclusivityofthehautecouturewerenolongerconsistentwiththeneweconomic,culturalanddemographicrealitiesofthepostwaryears.Therewasaneedformoreagilityandquantityofproducts.Thusarapidproductionsystembegantobepracticedundernewindustrialcharacteristicsthatwereadaptedtotheincreasingdemandsofgarmentsproduct[3,4].

Thenewindustrialsystempromotedgreattransformationwithinthecreativeanddevelopmentprocessoffashionproducts.Thedemandforproductsincreasedsignificantlyduetonewsocialgroupswhichhadhigherpurchasingpowerandnewformsofconsumptionestablishedwiththeadventofmechanizationandmassproduction.Consequently,thesystemwasquicklydisseminatedthroughseveralregionsoftheworld,favoringthestrengthening

ofthetextileandapparelindustry.Thedesignandplanningstagesofclothingincreasinglyimprovedconcerningtonewtextileandindustrialtechnologies,aswellasbecamemoresensitivetosocialandculturalmovements.

Thehedonisticconsumptionwasbecomingincreasinglypresent,intensifiedprimarlybyaestheticandsymbolicelementsoffashionproducts.Consequently,theindustryhadtobeopenedtotheperceptionsanddesiresofasocietyincreasinglyfocusedonthepresent,onthenewandonthepossibilitiesofidentityexpression.Theyouthgroups,forinstance,wereasegmentofconsumerwhichsignificantlyinfluencedguidelinesofdevelopmentandproductionofafewfashionproductsoverthecourseofthedecadesaftertheconsolidationoftheindustrialsystem[3].

Withthepostmodernismideas,marketsbecamemorecomplexandwerenolongerlargeandhomogeneous.Thenewtendencyofconsumptionledtheindustrytodivideintosmallerandsmallersegments,whichwereidentifiedbydifferentneedsandexpectationsofindividuals[5].

Inthisscenario,consumerscametobeperceivedasdeterminingfactorinproductdevelopmentofproducts.Asinpreviousperiods,theiractions,desiresandexpectationsinducedsignificantlythecorrectsizingoftheproducts,consideringaesthetic,physical,practicalandfunctionalaspects.Thesefactors,inturn,begantodeterminenewconstructivemethodologiesforgarmentproducts.Theaspectsoffashionpatternbegantobecomemoreprominent,especiallydueitsfocusontheassertivenessoftheproduct.Thetargetaudiencebegantobeanalyzedandconsidered,especiallywhenindustriesrealizedthattoincreasetheproductionandsales,itwasnecessarytostimulatetheconsumptionmustbeeffectiveandcontinuous.Buyingandhavingwereactionsthatwereabletoconstruetheindividualsubjectivitythroughnon-verbalelements,reflectingonhowthesubjectwouldbeperceived.

Inthecontextofindustrialization,someergonomicknowledgearisingfromWorldWarIIbegantobeinserted[6].Withtheindustrialproduction,clothingpatternsofshapesandsizing/measuresbegantobeessentialinordertocoverthedimensionalstandardsofsomeindividualvariations[6].Whenwell-knowtheuser,recognizingtheirneeds,capabilitiesandlimitations,itispossibletoidentifyinadvancetheoccurrenceofaccidents,healthdamagesanddiscomfort[6].Consequently,theindividualsaregraduallybeingseenasusersandnotjustasmereconsumers.

Alliedtothis,themarketsegmentationbegantooffervariationsinfunctionalbenefitsaswellasmoreattentiontowardsthehedonisticneeds[5].Mainlywiththepostmodernismadvent,theresearcherswithusersandconsumersbegantoextrapolatetheaspectsofmarketingandadvertising.Theimagemanipulationrealizedbymedia,especiallyaftermid-1950s,werenolongersufficientgiventhevastnessofproductsthatconstitutethemarket.Inthepost-industrialsocietytheostentatiousaspectsoftheproductwerenolongersufficienttotheuserorconsumer,becomingtheexperienceandtheemotionbothaspectsofsignificantimportancetothequalityofaproduct[7].

Regardingthefashioncontext,theclothingproductprovidestotheemotionallevelchannelsofsignificationandsubjectiveidentification.Besidessymbolicandaestheticelementsandcomposition,itgivesindistinguishabletoolsforthepromotionofaffectivestatestoindividual[8].

Thus,thebasicfunctionsofclothingextrapolatethefunctionofdressingandcoveringthebodyandareassociatedwiththesocialconditionsofsubjectivityandconstructionofidentity[8].Consideringitsdirectcontactwiththetopographyofthebodyandtheskin,thefashionproductgene