Bohemian style英语Word格式.docx

Bohemian style英语Word格式.docx

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BloomsburyGroup"

whichformedaroundtheStephensisters,VanessaBellandVirginiaWoolfintheearly20thcentury,areamongthebest-knownexamples.Theoriginal"

Bohemians"

weretravelersorrefugeesfromcentralEurope（hence,theFrenchbohé

mien,for"

gypsy"

）.

Reflectingonthefashionstyleof"

boho-chic"

intheearlyyearsofthe21stcentury,theSundayTimesthoughtitironicthat"

fashionablegirlsworerufflyfloralskirtsinthehopeoflookingbohemian,nomadic,spiritedandnon-bourgeois"

whereas"

gypsygirlsthemselves...aresexyanddelightfulpreciselybecausetheydonotgiveahootforfashion"

[1].Bycontrast,inthelate19thcenturyandfirsthalfofthe20th,aspectsofBohemianfashionreflectedthelifestyleitself.

Pre-Raphaelites

JaneMorrispaintedbyDanteGabrielRossettiasProserpine（1874）

In1848WilliamMakepeaceThackerayusedthewordbohemianisminhisnovelVanityFair.In1862,theWestminsterReviewdescribedaBohemianas"

simplyanartistorlitté

rateurwho,consciouslyorunconsciously,secedesfromconventionalityinlifeandinart"

.Duringthe1860sthetermwasassociatedinparticularwiththepre-Raphaelitemovement,thegroupofartistsandaesthetesofwhichDanteGabrielRossettiwasthemostprominent[2]:

Asthe1860sprogressed,Rossettiwouldbecomethegrandprinceofbohemianismashisdeviationsfromnormalstandardsbecamemoreaudacious.Andashebecemethisepitomeoftheunconventional,hisegocentricdemandsnecessarilyrequiredhisclosefriendstoremodeltheirownlivesaroundhim.Hisbohemianismwaslikeawebinwhichothersbecametrapped–nonemoresothanWilliamandJaneMorris[3].

JaneMorrisandpre-Raphaelitetraits

JaneMorris,whowastobecomeRossetti'

smuse,epitomised,probablymorethananyofthewomenassociatedwiththepre-Raphaelites,anunrestricted,flowingstyleofdressthat,whileunconventionalatthetime,wouldbehighlyinfluentialatcertainperiodsduringthe20thcentury[4].Sheandothers,includingthemuchlessoutlandishGeorgianaBurne-Jones（wifeofEdwardBurne-Jones）,eschewedthecorsetsandcrinolinesofthemidtolateVictorianera[5],afeaturethatimpressedtheAmericanwriterHenryJameswhenhewrotetohissisterin1869ofthebohemianatmosphereoftheMorrises’houseintheBloomsburydistrictofLondonand,inparticular,the“darksilentmedieval”presenceofitschateleine:

It’shardtosaywhethershe’sagrandsynthesisofallthepre-Raphaelitepicturesevermade…whethershe’sanoriginaloracopy.Ineithercaseshe’sawonder.Imagineatallleanwomaninalongdressofsomedeadpurplestuff,guiltlessofhoops（orofanythingelseIshouldsay）withamassofcrispblackhairheapedintogreatwavyprojectionsoneachofhertemples…alongneck,withoutanycollar,andinlieuthereofsomedozenstringsofoutlandishbeads[6].Early20thcentury

"

Bundle"

BrentinTheSevenDialsMystery（AgathaChristie,1929）

Thepre-Raphaelitelookwasstillconsidered"

advanced"

inthelateyearsofthe19thcentury[7],bywhenmovements,suchastheRationalDressSociety（1881）,withwhichtheMorrisesandGeorgianaBurne-Joneswereinvolved,werebeginningtoexercisesomeinfluenceonwomen'

sdress.However,itwasnotreallyuntiltheFirstWorldWarthat"

manyworkingwomen...embarkedonarevoultioninfashionthatgreatlyreducedtheweightandrestrictionsimposedonthembytheirclothing"

[8].Somewomenworkinginfactoriesworetrousersandthebrassierebegangraduallytosupersedethecorset[9].Bytheearly1920s,whathadbeenawartimeexpedient-theneedtoeconomiseonmaterial-hadbecomeastatementoffreedombyyoungwomen,manifestedbyshorterhemlines（justabovethekneeby1925-6[10]）andboyishhairstyles,accompaniedbywhatRobertGravesandAlanHodgedescribedas"

thenewfantasticdevelopmentofJazzmusic"

[11].ThePenguinSocialHistoryofBritainnotedthat"

bythe1920snewspaperswerefilledwithadvertisementsfor'

lingerie'

and'

undies'

whichwouldhavebeenclassedasindecentagenerationearlier"

[12].Thus,inAgathaChristie'

snovel,TheSevenDialsMystery（1929）,thearistocraticheroine,Lady"

Brent,woreonly"

anegligibletrifle"

underherdress;

likemanyreallife"

itgirls"

ofherclass,shehadbeenfreedfromthe"

genteelexpectations"

ofearliergenerations[13].

Lookingbackatthisperiod,GravesandHodgenotedtheprotractedcoursethat"

daringfemalefashionshadalwaystaken...frombrotheltostage,thenontoBohemia,toSociety,toSociety'

smaids,tothemill-girlandlastlytothesuburbanwoman"

[14].

The"

Dorelia"

look

AmongfemaleBohemiansintheearly20thcentury,the"

gypsylook"

wasarecurringtheme,popularisedby,amongothers,Dorothy"

McNeill（1881-1969）,muse,loverandsecondwifeofthepainterAugustusJohn（1878-1961）,whosefullskirtsandbrightcoloursgaverisetotheso-called"

Dorelialook"

[15].KatherineEverett,né

eOlive,aformerstudentoftheSladeSchoolofArtinLondon,hasdescribedMcNeil'

s"

tightfitting,hand-sewn,canarycolouredbodiceaboveadarkgatheredflowingskirt,andherhairveryblackandgleaming,emphasiz[ing]thelongsilverearringswhichwereheronlyadornment"

[16].

EverettrecalledalsotheJohns'

woods"

withwildcherrytreesinblossom,and...amodelwithflyingredhair,cladinwhite,beingchasedinandoutofthetreesbynudechildren"

.[17].Withsimilarlackofinhibition,asearlyas1907theAmericanheiressNatalieBarney（1875-1972）wasleadinglike-mindedwomeninsapphicdancesinherParisiangarden[18],photographsofwhichlooklittledifferentfromscenesatWoodstockin1969andother“pop”festivalsofthelate1960sandearly70s.

Bobbedhairandcross-genderstyles

Bycontrast,shortbobbedhairwasoftenaBohemiantrait[19],havingoriginatedinParisc.1909andbeenadoptedbystudentsattheSlade[20]severalyearsbeforeAmericanfilmactressessuchasColleenMooreandLouiseBrooksbecameassociatedwithitinthemid1920s.Thisstylewasplainlydiscernibleonawoodblockself-portraitof1916byDoraCarrington,whohadenteredtheSladein1910[21].Ashorterstyle,knownasthe"

Etoncrop"

becamepopulararound1926[22]:

onherarrivalinTilling（Rye）inEFBenson'

scomicnovelMappandLucia（1931）,Luciadescribed"

Quaint"

Ireneas"

agirlwithnohatandanEtoncrop.Shewasdressedinafisherman'

sjerseyandknickerbockers"

.Formanyyearstriteassumptionswereoftenmadeaboutthesexualityofwomenwithcroppedhairstyles;

anhistorianofthe1980swroteoftheGreenhamCommon"

peacecamp"

inEnglandthatit"

broughtpublicawarenesstofeministseparationandeventolesbianism,hithertoseeninthemassmedia-whenacknowledgedatall-eitherintermsofEton-croppedandrogynyorofpornographicfantasy"

.[23].

Onesocialhistorianhasobservedthat"

theinnocuouswoollenjersey,nowknown[inBritain]asthejumperorthepullover,wasthefirstitemofclothingtobecomeinterchangeablebetweenmenandwomenand,assuch,wasseenasadangeroussymptomofgenderconfusion"

[24].Trousersforwomen,sometimeswornmannishlyasanexpressionofsexuality（asbyMarleneDietrichinthe1930film,Morocco）alsobecamepopularinthe1920sand30s,asdidaspectsofwhatmanyyearslaterwouldsometimesbereferredtoas"

shabbychic"

.WinstonChurchill'

snieceClarissawasamongthosewhoworeatailoredsuitinthelate1930s.[25]

Post-LiberationParis

Café

deFlore,Saint-Germain-des-Prè

s,Paris:

hauntofpost-warbohemians

AftertheSecondWorldWarChristianDior'

NewLook"

launchedinParisin1947,setthepatternforwomen'

sfashiongenerallyuntilthe1960s.AmericaninfluenceshadbeendiscouragedduringtheNazioccupation,but,notablyintheformofbe-bopandothertypesofjazz,werestrongamongintellectualcafé

societyinthemidtolate1940s.[26]In1947,Samedi-Soirliftedthelidonwhatitcalledthe"

troglodytesofSaint-Germain"

[27]namelybohemiansoftheParisiandistrictofSaint-Germain-des-Pré

s,whoappearedtoclusteraroundexistentialistphilosopherJean-PaulSartre.TheseincludedRogerVadim（whomarriedandlaunchedthecareerofactressBrigitteBardotinthe1950s）,novelistBorisVian（sincedescribedas"

theepitomeofLeftBankbohemia,standingatthecenterofitspostwarrehabilitation"

[28]）andsingerJulietteGré

co.

Incontrasttothe"

（whichitselfscandalisedsomeParisennes）,theclothesofthepost-warbohemianswerepredominantlyblack:

whenGré

cofirstperformedoutsideSaint-Germainsheaffrontedsomeofheraudiencebywearing"

blacktrousers,herbarefeetslippedintogoldensandals"

.[29]PerforminginLondonoverfiftyyearslater,Gré

cowasdescribedas"

stillooz[ing]bohemianstyle"

.[30]

Saint-Germaininretrospect

Capturingthespiritofthetime,DavidProfumohaswrittenofhowhismother,theactressValerieHobson,wasentrancedbyVadim'

sflatmate,thedirectorMarcAllé

gret,whileshewasfilmingBlancheFuryin1947:

Allé

gret'

sapparentlybohemianlifestyleappealedsharplytoherromanticside...andsherevelledintheLeftBankmilieutowhichheintroducedherduringscriptdiscussionsinParis.ThereweremealswithAndré

Gide,JeanCocteauandthelong-leggedZiziJeanmaire.ForanattractiveBritishwomanwhofeltdeprivedofattention...thiswasanidealsituationforsomesortofreawakening.[31